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Battle of the Brands: Adidas and Thom Browne’s Fight for Striped Supremacy

  • Writer: Anthony Williams
    Anthony Williams
  • Nov 25, 2024
  • 5 min read

Updated: May 8


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In a fashion industry highly focused on aesthetics, a good design is often regarded as self-expressive; however, even the simplicity of a stripe can lead to complex legal disputes. This issue was at the heart of a high-stakes trademark dispute between luxury designer Thom Browne and global sportswear giant Adidas.[1] Thom Browne, founded in 2001, is an American luxury brand whose ready-to-wear collection is made up of monochrome blazers, slacks, and ties, often competing with fashion houses like Burberry and Alexander McQueen.[2] Adidas, founded in 1949 and famously known for its iconic three-stripe logo affixed to its athletic and leisure wear, was displeased when Browne’s collection started featuring a four-stripe pattern on its activewear around 2007.[3]


Adidas and Thom Browne did not stitch this lawsuit together overnight—it was years in the making.[4] In 2007, Adidas contacted Browne, which at the time was using a three-horizontal bar design that Adidas believed was too similar to its three-stripe mark.[5] As a result, Browne switched to the four-horizontal bar design it currently uses on its clothing.[6] Between 2007 and 2018, the Thom Browne brand expanded from a boutique in Manhattan to being sold in over 300 global retail locations, venturing into clothing beyond formal business attire, such as athletic and leisure wear.[7] In June 2021, after many failed attempts at compromising with Browne since 2018, Adidas filed a lawsuit in the Southern District of New York alleging Browne’s “Four-Bar Signature” design and its application to trademark its “Grosgrain” design—a pattern of red, white, and blue stripes—infringed upon Adidas’ trademarked three-stripe mark.[8] Adidas attempted to settle out-of-court, but after many unsuccessful attempts, filed a 2021 trademark infringement, trade dilution, and unfair competition complaint against Browne, seeking approximately $900,000 in damages and $7 million in profits it alleges Browne attained.[9]


During the trial, Adidas presented evidence that nearly 30% of people surveyed associated Browne’s garments with Adidas.[10] In response, Browne’s counsel argued that the parties compete in "different worlds,” comparing a $50 pair of Adidas sweatpants to an almost $800 pair by Browne.[11] Browne’s legal counsel highlighted the difference in the two brands’ price and quality, asserting that Browne’s activewear is not intended for sports in the same way as Adidas’.[12] During closing arguments, Browne’s counsel told the jury that “Adidas does not own stripes.”[13] Ultimately, after a nine-day trial and three hours of deliberation, the jury ruled in favor of Browne, finding no trademark infringement or dilution.[14]


Despite Browne’s victory in the U.S., the trademark dispute persisted as Adidas brought the case to Germany, where it is headquartered, signaling that the legal battle was far from over.[15] On September 6, 2024, the LG Nuremberg-Fürth Regional Court dismissed Adidas’ claims of trademark infringement and unfair competition, ruling that consumer confusion was unlikely.[16] In its decision, the court relied on two factors: i) the distinct visual differences between Browne’s four-bar logo and Adidas’ three-stripe design, and ii) the attentiveness of Browne’s luxury clientele, who can readily distinguish between the two brands.[17] Browne's luxury price point targets consumers who can distinguish his brands from others.[18] The court further emphasized that Browne’s price point and the prominent “THOM BROWNE” branding on Browne’s website and affixed to its garments reduced any likelihood of confusion.[19]


Both the Southern District Court of New York and the German court ruled in Browne’s favor, citing the distinct visual characteristics of its four-bar logo design, luxury branding, and attentive consumer base, which collectively reduce confusion and avoid infringing on Adidas’ three-stripe trademark.[20] These court decisions highlight how differences in design, target audience, and presentation allow brands in the same industry to coexist within distinct niches.[21] This precedent reinforces the protection of distinctive designs, empowering smaller brands to assert their trademark rights in the face of larger competitors.[22] It also serves as a reminder of the critical need for thorough trademark searches early in the design process to avoid baseless infringement claims.[23]


[1] See Complaint at 1–5, Adidas Am., Inc. v. Thom Browne, Inc., No. 21-cv-05615 (S.D.N.Y. filed June 28, 2021).


[2] See Rachel Syme, How Thom Browne’s Gray Suit Conquered American Fashion, The New Yorker (Sept. 18, 2023), https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2023/09/25/how-thom-brownes-gray-suit-conquered-american-fashion. Browne has gained the likes of notable celebrities such as Beyoncé, LeBron James, and most recently, Ariana Grande. See Adidas v. Thom Browne: A Cautionary Tale for Designers, Thompson LLP [hereinafter A Cautionary Tale], https://www.thomplegal.com/news/adidas-v-thom-browne-a-cautionary-tale-for-designers (last visited Nov. 5, 2024); see also Elaina Bernstein, Beyoncé Reps Red, White and Blue Thom Browne to Announce Team USA, Hypebeast (July 27, 2024), https://hypebeast.com/2024/7/beyonce-thom-browne-olympics-team-usa-announcement; Rebecca Suhrawardi, LeBron James Is Still The King Of Thom Browne, Forbes (Feb. 28, 2022, 10:31 AM), https://www.forbes.com/sites/rebeccasuhrawardi/2022/02/25/lebron-james-is-still-the-king-of-thom-browne; Aimee Lutkin, Ariana Grande Wears Custom Thom Browne Gown to 'Wicked' Premiere, ELLE (Nov. 10, 2024, 10:22 AM), https://www.elle.com/culture/celebrities/a62861859/ariana-grande-wicked-premiere-thom-browne/.


[3] See Danielle M. DeFilippis, What Makes the Adidas Thom Browne Case So Interesting?, Norris McLaughlin P.A., https://norrismclaughlin.com/mtym/uncategorized/what-makes-the-adidas-thom-browne-case-so-interesting/ (last visited Oct. 15, 2024).


[4] Id.


[5] Id.


[6] Id.


[7] Id.


[8] See id.; see also Complaint, supra note 1.


[9] Jean E. Palmieri, Adidas Appeals Thom Browne Verdict, a Dog of a Fashion Show, Women’s Wear Daily (Aug. 29, 2023, 1:00 PM), https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/adidas-appeals-thom-browne-verdict-a-dog-of-a-fashion-show-nyfw-1235780753/.


[10] Molly Rothschild, Sparring Over Stripes: The Adidas v. Thom Browne Trademark Trial, Frankfurt Kurnit Klein & Selz P.C. (Jan. 29, 2023), https://ipandmedialaw.fkks.com/post/102i65k/sparring-over-stripes-the-adidas-v-thom-browne-trademark-trial.


[11] See id.


[12] See Adidas Am., Inc. v. Thom Browne, Inc., No. 21-cv-5615, 2024 U.S. Dist. LEXIS 135976, at *23 (S.D.N.Y. July 29, 2024).


[13] Marisa Dellatto, Adidas Loses Trademark Lawsuit Against Thom Browne Over Stripe Design, Forbes (Jan. 12, 2023, 5:44 PM), https://www.forbes.com/sites/marisadellatto/2023/01/12/adidas-loses-trademark-lawsuit-against-thom-browne-over-stripe-design/.


[14] See Ran Karmi, Abstract Elements and Trademark Dilution – Adidas vs. Browne, JD Supra (Feb. 22, 2023), https://www.jdsupra.com/legalnews/abstract-elements-and-trademark-3705261/.


[15] Thom Browne v. Adidas: Another Trade Mark Victory for the Luxury Fashion Brand, Nat’l Bus. Reg., https://nationalbusinessregister.co.uk/thom-browne-vs-adidas/ (last visited Oct. 29, 2024).


[16] Id.


[17] Id.


[18] See Christopher Ruvo, Thom Browne Prevails Again Against Adidas in Trademark Dust Up, ASI Canada (Sept. 13, 2024), https://www.asicentral.ca/news/industry-news/september-2024/thom-browne-prevails-again-against-adidas-in-trademark-dust-up/.


[19] Id.


[20] Id.; see Blake Brittain, Adidas Loses N.Y. Trial Against Thom Browne over Three-Stripe Design, Reuters (Jan. 12, 2023, 8:21 PM), https://www.reuters.com/legal/adidas-loses-ny-trial-against-thom-browne-over-three-stripe-design-2023-01-12/.


[21] See A Cautionary Tale, supra note 2.


[22] See id.; see also Olivia Hampton, Thom Browne’s Win Against Adidas Is Also One for Independent Designers, He Says, NPR (Jan. 30, 2023, 5:12 AM), https://www.npr.org/2023/01/25/1151270484/fashion-designer-thom-browne-scores-a-major-victory-against-adi.


[23] See A Cautionary Tale, supra note 2; see also Hampton, supra note 22.

 
 
 
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